How to Arrange Furniture in a Through-Room Without Blocking Pathways or Flow
What is a room where all four walls are obstructed called? The name for it is a “through-room.” They were popular in homes built over a hundred years ago because they were seen as making the rooms located adjacent to or near the through-room feel more connected.
Let’s talk about what I mean when referring to obstructions. It’s not as dire as it sounds. Obstructions are usually architectural features that inhibit the placement of furniture or alter the flow of a room. In this case, the obstructions are doors on 3 of the four walls, and a fireplace with built-ins on each side, on the 4th.
In a nutshell, “obstructions” are the things that make arranging furniture tricky.
(Through-rooms have also been referred to as “transit-spaces,” which means exactly what it sounds like: a room that makes moving to and from each room off it, quicker. Much like a bus or city train.)
Instead of closed walls that used a long hall or a main corridor to get from one room to an adjacent room, doorway openings were installed in the through-rooms to make the adjacent rooms immediately accessible.
It was also better to have open doorways for heat transfer years ago because many homes used wood-burned fireplaces to heat them. Since it wasn’t practical to have fireplaces in every room, open doorways made it possible for the heat to transfer to the other ‘connected’ rooms.
Aleksander Dumała
(If you’ve read some of my other posts, I’ve written a few times about pass-through living rooms, which are similar.)
The “Trouble” with Through-Rooms and Transit Spaces These Days
So, the efficiency that worked over a hundred years ago has become the tricky and awkward spaces of today.
Since most homes now have central heating, the need to rely on a fireplace to heat spaces has become obsolete.
Architectural preferences in homes built today, take into consideration accessibility and flow.
These days, architects and designers think carefully about certain conveniences -like putting garage access close to the kitchen or pantry spaces to make tasks like bringing in, and putting away, groceries easier. Or laundry location on the same floor as bedrooms and closets, so you’re not carrying heavy loads of clean laundry up 2 or 3 flights of stairs or far distances.
Ultimately, the real “trouble” with through-rooms is that they’re difficult to layout.
Hinged doors that swing into the room: inhibit furniture placement because you can’t block the ‘swing’ of the doors.
Large, open doorways that make transit easier, also hinder the placement of furniture because you can’t block the pathways into and through the rooms.
And Fireplaces, some with beautiful built-ins on either side, eliminate an entire wall that could have been used for anchoring larger furniture pieces.
That’s why it’s important to understand that you can’t just buy furniture for a through-room and hope for the best. You must measure and know the exact size of the room before assuming that something will fit.
Parameters: How to Make a Classic Through-Room Work
The main issues with these types of rooms boil down to:
Where to put furniture.
What will fit.
How to preserve or enhance functionality and flow.
Essentially, it’s all about how to make your room functional and comfortable, and to give it purpose.
For this room, it was important for my clients to have 2 comfortable and functional spaces that complimented one another but that were for different purposes.
The main transit space was the “formal living room,” where guests would gather for visits and where the homeowners could enjoy sitting by the fireplace.
The other area was an updated and insulated sunroom, that would become the TV viewing room and the space to enjoy as much natural daylight as possible.
Those requirements meant that, before considering any specific furniture purchases, we had to work with the tricky features in the room to avoid creating a different, equally awkward, layout. That meant I:
Couldn’t block pathways and doors.
Couldn’t block the fireplace or inhibit the doors and accessibility of the built-in cabinets.
Figure out how to make the “entryway” area functional. (sit, stand, store).
Figure out how to incorporate some furniture they already owned.
Come up with a solution for competing focal points, the fireplace and the sunroom views.
Right away, it was apparent that there were no unobstructed walls that would serve as the anchor for large furniture, like a long sofa, TV credenza, or tall etagere shelf. That also meant that the main seating in the living room had to float.
And since the space above the fireplace was narrow and the distance to the ceiling shorter, the TV could not be mounted above the mantle. (Honestly, I’m not the biggest fan of the TV above the fireplace default anyway.)
That also meant that the sunroom was indeed the best place to serve as the TV watching room. (There was no “ideal” spot for a TV or TV cabinet to go in the living room because of the doors on 3 walls and the full fireplace expanse on the 4th wall. We’ll get to that further down.)
Choose the Shape and Size of the Rug First.
What size and shape rug?
I choose the size of rugs first. It’s better to choose larger rugs in any size room, over smaller rugs. Small rugs can feel lost under furniture, and they are not good anchors for most size rooms.
For this room, I knew that an 8’ x 10’ rug would be a tad too small because the room was long and narrow and because an 8x10 rug would bring the furniture too close together and that would create a new problem of potentially obstructing the pathway through the living room, potentially blocking the large sunroom doorway.
Why the Size of a Rug Will Affect Traffic Patterns
So, by choosing a 9’ x 12’ area rug to anchor the living room, it was large enough to provide that extra space between things like sofas, chairs, and occasional pieces that would add convenience and functionality to the room.
(Usually with larger rugs in the 9x12 or 10x 12 range, you can fit all the furniture completely on the rug, which is best for some pieces like swivel chairs.)
In the sunroom, I wanted to create another anchored area, so a 6’ x 9’ rug was the perfect fit. Again, because of the width of the sunroom, an 8x10 size wouldn’t have fit. The 8’ side would’ve crossed the threshold of the living room.
(Sometimes, in trickier rooms, you’ll have to track down less common rug sizes, or you could also consider custom rugs, where you can specify the exact size to fit the space.)
Working with (Not Against) the Room’s Architectural Features
The main seating
Now that the parameters are outlined, it’s time to talk about the specific layout choices for this room, and why they’re best for the function and flow of it. I also want to point out a specific feature that you might not think could have a dual purpose.
As I mentioned earlier, the 9x12 rug, being slightly longer, allowed all the upholstered furniture to be placed fully on the rug. The sofa and coffee table float in the center of the room. (That just means they’re not against a wall.)
This positioning also made it possible to pull the sofa and coffee table back out of the main pathway from the French doors through to the sunroom entry.
The natural focal point of the room is the fireplace and built-ins, so opposite this IS the ideal spot for the sofa.
Now, because of the width of the room is narrow, the width of the sofa also needed to be narrow so that the secondary pathways around the sofa were clear.
Keeping the pathways beside the sofa open also meant there was no room for permanent end tables. So, the coffee table becomes the main table-top surface.
Tip: when working with a floating furniture layout, try to keep your occasional furniture visually open. I used a glass top coffee table in a narrow rectangular shape in front of the sofa to keep the navigation through the room more open. A wider rectangle, square or larger round shape would’ve been too large for the space. This narrow piece works well in the space where every inch of this pathway is important.
Opposite the sofa and coffee table, I placed two low back, barrel or tub shaped swivel chairs, flanking the fireplace.
The chairs are pulled into the room so that there’s enough room to access the glass doors of the built-in cabinets on either side of the fireplace. Swivel chairs are great in small spaces where there's either competing focal points or, in this case, where you could swivel toward the sofa for conversation and swivel toward the fireplace for ambience. You can even swivel toward the sunroom for conversation with people there.
Tip: For stability, keep swivel chair mechanisms either completely on or completely off an area rug. This will give you the best stability for the chair and it will also prevent damage overtime because the mechanism will be flat against whatever floor surface it's on.
I like to use round nesting tables next to swivel chairs because the tables don't have edges that will get caught against the chair as it swivels. The best thing about nesting tables is that they can be nested together for everyday purposes and can be broken apart when one is needed someplace else.
The Perimeter walls are for art, accent and occasional furniture
In an entryway, it's always good to have a spot to put something down. So right inside the entry door there’s a half round table that serves as that surface to place something: keys a bag etc. This table also serves the function of holding a table lamp because there are no end tables where a lamp can be placed near the sofa.
Behind the sofa, there is a tall narrow display cabinet that adds height and function to the bump out wall beside the powder room. The pathway space between the sofa and the cabinet is clear so that navigating from the hallway to the front entry door is open and accessible.
I also placed a bench in the entry space so that there was a place to sit for convenience: putting on and taking off shoes, etc. This bench also acts as an additional seat to be brought into the living room space on occasion for guests.
Where to put the TV in the Sunroom?
The sunroom was another challenge because the space is quite narrow, with windows on every wall, that left only the bottom halves of each wall open. There’s also a long-covered radiator on the long side. So, placing a piece of furniture in front of that would block heat.
My clients wanted a place to sit and watch TV, and when you have a TV cabinet, TV, and 2 chairs or recliners, in this size room with a long radiator, there just wasn’t enough room. So, something had to be eliminated.
Since the TV cabinet would’ve occupied too much needed floor space, I chose to eliminate it and put the TV directly on the top of the radiator cover. Consolidating the TV with the radiator cover allowed for 2 comfortable chairs in the corners beside the large entry door.
Yes, the TV blocks some of the view, but there’s still 2 side walls and most of the long wall of windows totally unobstructed.
A table lamp and end table next to one chair, and a floor lamp with a small drink table beside the other chair, made the space cozy and functional.
Here’s how I proposed it should look
Making a Through-Room Work for You
At first glance, through-rooms and transit spaces can feel more like a puzzle than a welcoming, functional room. But like any good puzzle, there’s always a solution.
The key is to work with your existing architecture rather than against it. That means choosing furniture with careful consideration—being open to floating layouts rather than forcing a traditional layout into a space that wasn’t designed for one.
It’s about finding creative ways to enhance flow, functionality, and comfort. Whether it’s a pass-through living room, a converted sunroom, or any other tricky space, the goal is the same: creating a home that works for you, not just the floor plan.
Now it’s your turn. Do you have a pass-through or transit room that you find tricky? Let me know what’s working and what’s not in the comments below. Let’s talk about it!
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Michael is Principal designer and blogger at Michael Helwig Interiors in beautiful Buffalo, New York. Since 2011, he’s a space planning expert, offering online interior e-design services for folks living in small homes, or for those with awkward and tricky layouts. He’s a frequent expert contributor to many National media publications and news outlets on topics related to decorating, interior design, diy projects, and more. Michael happily shares his experience to help folks avoid expensive mistakes and decorating disappointments. You can follow him on Pinterest, Instagram and Facebook @interiorsmh.